![]() ![]() Unless the weir gets clogged teeth or there's an obstruction, my emergency pipe never sees any water flowing through it though. I'm probably only throwing 700 GPH at best so this may also be a factor with my 1 inch lines. My main line is basically the bulkhead fitting without any standpipe. However my current setup is more of a vertical standpipe and doesn't use the down turned 90 or T fitting so that may help purge the air faster. I found this behavior was less of an issue with the valve at the bottom of the pipe in the sump. I was curious where your valve was as I had similar issues with the herbie I'm using. *** been using stockman style overflows in all my builds for over 10 years, trouble free.I noticed how high the water got when you started your pump before it settled down. ![]() I admit its not as quiet as a bean animal drain system, however there arent any valves to adjust and no need for emergency drain. A higher gph pump would push back more water and the stockmans would allow more water to flow ( raising tank level accordingly ) It will always self regulate and only failure would occur if return pump exceeded the drain's max flow potential. So the drains only flow over the stockman holes the amount that the return pump gives back. The 2 drains are much more flow than the Danner 1800gph return pump, can push back into tank. The only sounds are water trickling down pipe, in back of tank, going down to sump. I have a hole in cap at top center with a hose in it. There is a large cap on top, that hangs down into water below the holes in coupling. The flaired part of coupling is drilled with 1/4" holes that equal the desired flow. There is a 1 1/2" - 3" adapter coupling on that. I have a short oiece of pipe going into tank and into 90, thats aimed up. At back tankwall, I have 2 seperate 1 1/2" bulkheads drilled at about 7" down from top of tank. I will get a small tank for testing purposes. I would like to get some feedback before I test this out. Please kick this idea around for a while and let me know what you guys think. the hole in the top of the 90 will allow the water to start the overflow, when the water gets down below the hole you drilled it will also not allow for siphoning, thus eliminating any chance for overflowing your sump(as long as sufficient room is left in your sump to allow for that amount of water). Simply put a strainer of some kind on the end and set it as low in the tank as possible. (MAKE SURE PIPING IS LARGE ENOUGH TO ALLOW FOR SUFFICIENT FLOW FOR THE PUMP YOU AR USING). You pipe right through the hole with pvc and drill a hole in the top of the 90degree elbow going downward. You drill as close to the top of the glass as you can ( the top of your hole will determine your water level. The tank will have to be drilled on the back glass similar to a through the back type overflow (such as offered by glass-holes). Tonight it hit me like a ton of bricks so I did a rough drawing to give a visual to my idea. I have been thinking about how to do this for my 200G tank for a while now. I thought that it would be nice to use a setup that sucks more from the bottom like a traditional canister filter does, resulting in excellent mechanical filtration. I really have not been impressed with the mechanical filtration in general, but more specifically the filtration of large particles and junk(such as fish poo). I have a 90 gallon tank with a traditional overflow.
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